Left or Right

July 6, 2023

Upper Arkansas River – Hayden Meadows.

Flows: 90 cfs.

Moon Phase: Waning Gibbous (99% luminous).

Water Temp: 50F.

Water clarity: Off color and murky.

Air Temp: 49F @ 8:30a – ~65F @ 4p.

Hatches: Midge: 8:30a – 10a. Caddis: 8:30aa till end of day. PMD: Spotty after noon.

Flies: #10 Cranefly Larva, #20 Buckskin Caddis, #22 Top Secret Midge, #20 Barr Emerger PMD, #18 Guide’s Choice Hare’s Ear, #16 PMD Flashback Pheasant Tail, #18 Brown Graphic Caddis, #20 Bead Head Green Caddis Emerger, #18 Purple Rainbow Warrior, #22 Black Midge.

Top producers: PMD Barr Emerger, Guide’s Choice Hare’s Ear, Rainbow Warrior, Black Midge.

Mt. Albert. I never tire of this sight!

It’s been about a year since we last fished Hayden Meadows - the headwaters of the famous Arkansas River. It’s a small river here and meanders through the meadows with a number of 14ers looming over it to the west. For those not familiar with Colorado lingo – a 14er is a mountain that is over 14,000 feet above sea leave.

This is without a doubt one of the most beautiful places that you’ll ever find to fish for trout.

As you approach the river from the parking lot there is a bridge that crosses the river. There is a monicor on the bridge that states that was part of the original East/West Passage through the United States.

At the bridge, you have a choice of going downstream – to the right – or going upstream which is to the left. The last two - and only times we fished this meadow – we fished it to the left. Upstream.

Or this one! Mt. Massive.

As we were leaving the river the last time Brian and I noted that we would try the downstream side next time. As we approached the river last week Brian reminded me that we wanted to go to the right and try the downstream side – but neither of us could remember why.

When we got to the bridge I suggested that we go upstream – to the left and head to the Daily Double hole. The first time we fished this part of the Arkansas – we had a day to remember in that hole. There were Green Drakes hatching along with some smaller mayflies, and some stoneflies. The memory is etched into my brain. I never have fished during a Green Drake hatch before – or since – and it was fantastic.

The fishing reports all said there was an assortment of flies hatching: Green Drakes, Yellow Sallies, PMDs, Stoneflies, along with Midges, BWOs, and terrestrials. Quite a menu for hungry trout! I couldn’t wait to get there. Visions of those big Green Drakes on the water and big rainbow and brown trout rising to gorge themselves on them.

Netting a few brownies just adds to the experience.

That’s why I suggested we go left at the bridge. I just had to hit the hole. So we headed that way with the plan that no matter what – we’d go downstream below the bridge after lunch. Just to check it out.

Going upstream toward the Daily Double hole is not easy. There are thick willow trees along the bank and marsh land on the other side of the willows. You have to navigate through the soggy marsh until there is an opening in the willows that leads to the river. And you have to find an opening that provides a clear path along the river – or you will have to go back through the willows and go further up until you find another path back to the river.

Marsh land – mosquito city.

We stopped before entering it and put plenty of bug spray on. Then slogged our way through to an opening that led to the river. The one we picked lead to a point on the river where we could wade in it or along the bank all the way to the Daily Double hole.

A view from the river. I don't think there is a prettier place to fish - anywhere.

Once at the Daily Double you have to cross the river in order to fish it. The water was pretty high and brownish from the daily thunderstorms that have been moving through the area and there were no crossing points before the hole. At least not ones we wanted to try with the high flow. So we hiked up further looking for a crossing point.

We then came up to the Observatory Pool. We’ve had some luck in this pool and the slower run below it in the past and decided to give it a shot.

I was on the riverbank tying on my flies as Brain began to fish the run above the pool – then the pool – then the water below. He had already set up his rig.

With the recent storms and resulting higher water, I chose a #10 Cranefly Larva as my lead fly for a few reasons. One, the higher water would churn up a bunch of stuff off the bottom of the river – like Cranefly larva. Second, the Cranefly Larva pattern is big and is tied with lead – so it’s heavy and would help get my flies down in the high, fast water. Third, it’s a big meal and it’s hard for the trout to resist.

The brownies here are healthy and will give it all they got to get free. This one took Brian's Purple Rainbow Warrior.

Brian Kenney.

I followed the Cranefly Larva with a #20 Buckskin Caddis. There were already a bunch of caddis flying around and they were tan in color. There were also midges dancing above the water so I chose a #24 Top Secret Midge as my last fly.

With all the bases covered, I began to fish the pool which Brian had since moved out of. At the far side of the river just below the pool is slower water that I intended to cover. I got a nice brownie there once. But before going there, I covered the entire pool. Starting on the near side and slowly moving in deeper until I was at the far side – in the spot I wanted to cover.

Not getting any interest I began to work downstream. At the same time Brian was working back upstream and we switch positions. And wouldn’t you know it, Brian got a nice 13” brownie out of that little seam on the far side of the river. It took his #18 Purple Rainbow Warrior.

After a bit I decided that I would cross the river and head down to the Daily Double. After trying a couple of crossing points that I deemed too deep and fast, I found a spot and made it across. There’s an observation deck on that side of the river and I assumed that there would be a nice path that I could take to the hole.

I assumed wrong.

Another brown trout in the net.

I soon found myself in a marsh with a thick line of willows and other larger trees between me and the river. As I slogged my way through the marsh I found out that all of the marshy spots are not the same. As in depth! I stepped into one that must have been about three feet deep and soon found myself falling face first into it. Not fun!

Once I got myself upright and collected – I headed into the willows intent on finding a way to the river. There were some deer trails through it. At times the trail was a tunnel with branches over my head. It made for a cumbersome hike – with two 9’ fishing poles in hand – but I finally broke through……literarily….to the riverbank!

Once I got to the hole I didn’t spot any fish. With the cloudy water I was thinking that there still could be some fish in there. After covering it a few times I decided to change up my flies.

Still wanting some heavy flies, I chose a #18 Guide’s Choice Hare’s Ear as my lead fly and followed it with a #18 Green Bead Head Caddis Larva and a #18 PMD Pheasant Tail.

The Texas Run. (So named because a couple from Texas who came up to ask me for some advice while I was releasing a nice brownie!)

Again I covered it several more times without a hit and was thinking of moving on. Just then I had a taker – I got him at the tailout of the pool. A nice 14” brownie who took the Guide’s Choice Hare’s Ear. I had tied this fly using chartreuse wire instead of the recommended copper wire. The chartreuse wire gave it a kind of caddis look – and that’s why I picked it.

After releasing the brownie I continued to cover the pool without any further action. It was time to move You have to fish the next hole downstream from the other side of the river which meant crossing it again. My sandwich was in my backpack and I was able to save it when I fell into the deep marsh. Not wanting to risk falling in the water and losing my lunch - I decided to eat it first!

I was able to cross the river without too much excitement and was now fishing the hole below the Daily Double when Brian showed up. He had got a few more smaller brownies out of the Observatory Pool and the run below it. They were hitting his #20 Black Midge.

Brown trout were the order of the day.

It was then we decided to finally head downstream of the bridge.

We found the going much easier downstream. There are well worn paths along the riverbank, no marshes, and no willows or trees guarding it. The river rocks are just as slippery though and you have to be careful. Boy I was thinking “why didn’t we just turn right” like we originally planned.

Not only is the going a lot easier, we found that there are a lot more fishy spots downstream of the bridge. Pocket water, riffles, runs, and seams – and some nice pools.

I soon found a nice deep run with large, submerged boulders at the end of it. Somehow I foul hooked a nice brownie. I say somehow because it hit mid-drift. I wasn’t lifting my rod to recast – just letting my flies drift downstream. At first I was sure it was a valid take, but after I wasn’t able to turn his head and he continued to take me downstream I realized he was foul hooked and I broke him off.

I found a nice brownie right along the bank here.

Then a few drifts later in the pockets behind the boulders I had another fish hit. I had him for a minute or two and then he came up out of the water and spit the hook. Another nice brownie.

I was encouraged.

With the fast water, I find it best to fish along the banks where there are cutouts and deeper seams. There are a couple of ways of doing this. One is to wade into the water and cast back to the bank. This is the preferred way but difficult in fast water. The other is to stand on the bank and cast upstream. This is a lot harder both to get a good cast and to manage your line as the flies float back toward you. And it is easier to get caught up in the vegetation along the bank.

I finally found a place that I could safely wade into the water. It was shallow in the middle of the river with some riffles flowing into the bank forming a nice little run no more than one foot wide along the bank. There had to be a few brownies there. I was sure of it.

I still had my nymphing rod which isn’t my goto for this type of fishing. I would rather have my Hopper/Dropper setup. When fishing along the bank a hopper is always a good choice. Grasshoppers and other large terrestrial insects get blown into the water and trout will hit them as soon as they land on the water. And the distance between the Hopper and my target flies is shorter which gives me more control of my drift and it’s easier to hit my targets.

Releasing a brownie back into the Daily Double Hole.

But since I had my nymphing rod in hand I decided to try it. Earlier, Brian had said he saw some yellow flies in the air but couldn’t ID what they were. I was now ready to change out my target fly and based on what Brian had said, I tied on a #20 PMD Barr Emerger. After a few tries I wasn’t too happy with the drift I was getting and made up my mind to wade over to the shore and tie up my Hopper/Dropper.

But then I gave it one more try - and BANG!

Well, it wasn’t really BANG – rather it was a nice hit and I soon netted a 13” brownie. Not the biggest fish – but brightly colored and healthy. And quite feisty for a smaller fish. But that’s what you expect from a brown trout and it was fun to get some action after the slow morning.

I then covered that little seam along the bank frontwards and backwards – but there were no more fish. Time to move on and I had my sights set on a pool that was formed by a bend in the river. I had to cross over to get into position to fish it, but it wasn’t a problem with the shallow water above it.

Releasing this beauty back into the Texas Run.

Once in position, I casted to the far side of the river where the current cut into the bank. After a few casts my indicator paused and I set the hook. Then a fish streaked toward me. Ugh – I’ve lost more fish like this than I’d like to admit. When they swim right at you it’s difficult to keep the line taunt and they are able to spit the hook.

But not this time. I had this bad boy tight. He was taking me all over though. I was soon able to see him in the water and it would be the nicest fish of the day if I could land him. Once I had him to the point where I could get his head up in the water – he took one look at me and bolted. I got him back and he did it again. After a yet a few more runs I had him in my net. A beauty. He took the PMD Barr Emerger.

Before leaving I would have another nice brownie on. Got him just as the fast water dumps into the pool, but that one was able to get off pretty quickly. You could say it wasn’t the best hook set!

The fish and these incredible views keep me coming back!

I met up with Brian back at the bridge.

As we headed to the car we agreed – no doubt - we are heading to the right next time.